Walking out of the Tsarap Chu
January 27th, 2007Posted by Sam Hughes- Across the Himalaya with a Kayak
Matt Tidy, Babu Sunuwar and Shalabh in the Zanskar Gorge.
The Tsarap Chu and Zanskar rivers flow through the remote, relatively untouched heart of Ladakh, and offer an impressive 5 to 8 day wilderness kayak experience through breath taking scenery, and gives a unique access to a fascinating ancient culture.
Through the winter months these rivers form the major trade routes for the region when the turbulent waters freeze, and they form a natural highway through the otherwise impenetrable mountains. Due to this, a large number of villages, towns and ancient fortresses and monasteries are still able to flourish, in much the same way they have done for centuries.
The trip starts with a 2 day drive to the high altitude put in point at Sarchu, before passing 180km on the Tsarap Chu to join the Zanskar river at Padum. From hear the Zanskar flows 120km through one of the most impressive gorges in the world, before it finally joins with the Indus just west of Leh.
Fresh water pours from a natural spring high up a cliff wall, Zanskar River.
Children in Purne village, Tsarap Chu River.
Monestary outside Leh
In August last year, while on our first attempt of the Tsarap Chu river, myself (Sam Hughes UK), Ali Donald (Ire), Dave Carroll (Ire), Rosie Cripps (Scot) and Rob Coffey (Ire) were hit by the biggest flood in the region for 30 years.
We came to the conclusion that with the knowledge we had at hand, it was best to abandon our equipment in a cave, and with the bare essentials make the 3 day trek, over several passes higher than 4600m (15 000ft), back to the road. Through a harsh mountain landscape, at high altitude, and with no trails to follow, this turned out to be a more challenging adventure than we could have expected.
Dave Carroll navigates his way through the turbulent flood waters.
The team inspect one of the narrows, where the swollen
river is compressed through a 3 meter gap.
After an exhausting day of portaging loaded boats, the team stop to discuss the options.
Rosie, Rob and Dave pack what they can carry, and stash the rest in boats at the back of a cave.
Rob Coffey and Rosie Cripps carrying what they can.
Dave Carroll takes a break to absorb the scenery, on the 1000m climb from Satok village to cross a 4800m pass.
Ali Donald contemplates what is safer. Cross the
bridge, or get back in the boat?
Ali Donald and Rob Coffey discuss the possibility of having our equipment retrieved with a local monk.
One of the local monks that covered the distance it had taken us 3 days
to do, 4 time in 5 days to retrieve our equipment. Respect!
Sarchu, the tented village at the put in for the Tsarap, where we waited for our boats.
6 days later we got our boats back, and proceeded to re-pack our equipment into them and get back onto the river, which by this time had dropped in level considerably. This was much to the amusement of the five monks who had just spend 4 days retrieving our kit after our first failed attempt!
Ali Donald makes his way back to the put in.
Matt Tidy makes his way through the first narrows, Tsarap Chu.
Babu and Shalabh prepare dinner over the camp fire, Tsarap Chu.
Roll out of bed and into your boat!
Phuktal Gompa seems to grow out of the jagged cliff face.
Posted by Sam Hughes- Across the Himalaya with a kayak Keep up to date with Sam’s recent travels as he recounts his epic Lhasa- Chengdu expedition over the next few weeks.
